PROGOL3D® is the result of years of research, curiosity and passion for discovery and innovation.
Exploring new techniques, seizing opportunities and inspiring brands and designers towards new frontiers.
Offering a new way of thinking to the market, re-inventing the way to create unique and exclusive pieces.
PROGOL3D® is intended as a 360° partner offering the possibility to directly 3D print jewels in precious metal,
in the most common finenesses and colours of high end jewellery (18K yellow, red and white Gold and Platinum) and in innovative Titanium.
Know-how and experience to support our partners throughout the main stages of the production process.
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Starting from the 3D file in .stl format, optimised for printing.
After the powder comes out of the cartridge the wiper spreads a layer of powder on the platform.
According to the 3D model, the actual melting phase is carried out by the laser.
The operation keeps repeating as the platform simultaneously lowers down.
Once the process is complete, the residual powder must be removed.
The obtained item is a semi-finished piece, ready to be polished according to the designer's project.
Simply upload your file in .stl format on the dedicated area of the website to obtain the quotation.
Our technical dept. evaluate the printability of the piece and set the printing parameters.
The alloy (after fineness testing) is atomized to produce precious metal or Titanium powder.
The laser printer melts the metal powder according to the desired design.
The obtained piece is detached from the platform and the supports are removed.
The semi-finished jewel is packed and sent to its destination.
Pictures 1-6 show the different kinds of supports employed during direct metal 3D printing. The above cross sections
show how invasive could be each one of them and give an idea on how the supported area will appear after receiving 3D
printed parts from PROGOL3D®. If compared to the casting downrunners and ingate, the 3D printed jewels' extra metal
residuals are spread on a higher area but the jewel shape is never affected as it could be for a heavy cast part where
downrunners need not only to be removed but the jewel needs also to be handcraftly re-shaped.
Most of the 5 materials proposed by PROGOL3D® are compliant to the colour standard ISO 8654 as well as compliant to any
restriction reported on REACH regulation. Our materials are totally nickel free. The white Gold Palladium based, 13% Pd,
gives a "Grade 2" white according WGC yellow index scheme. The red Gold coded 5N+ gives a colour's tone a bit more
reddish than standard 5N.
3D printed jewels' mechanical properties, if compared to casting, show a slightly higher hardness, in the range of no more than
5%, higher tensile strength and a lower elongation. This means that printed alloys are free of defects as well as their grain
structures are much finer than in casting.
Casting grain size could be up to 40 times bigger (from 100µm up to 2000µm) than 3D printed one (generally below 50µm). In
metallurgy this is a value! When a goldsmith works a 3D printed material doing grinding, assembling and polishing always feels
only positive behaviours.
A standard for metal printers resolution is not available yet. However, following the best practices on polymers' printers, the above
table shows the XY and Z resolution expressed in DPI (dots per inch). Basically, the values mean that on XY plane
our metals' printers can print details not smaller than 0.15-0.20mm while on Z axis they are able to reproduce details down
to 0.02mm. In casting this is not always possible especially for high melting range alloys such as Platinum and Titanium.
However, even for Gold alloys it is difficult to cast, meaning formfill, thin elements below 0.25-0.30mm.
In casting it is not possible to get a monolithic hollow jewel.
In this example, the ring needs to be cast in 2 parts and then assembled to have a hollow core. This is a
mandatory procedure to get an acceptable weight. This also means that after assembling,
a visible and unwanted soldering line will be visible, whether due to colour issues or polishing subsidence.
The 3D printed ring shown in the picture is monolithic and free of any soldering line problems. This
advantage can be applied both to the example given and also to any other kind of jewellery that needs to be
split in several sections to be then assembled through soldering procedures.
Designers can now work with a greater level of freedom. They no longer need to pay attention to the relationship between weight and
Direct metal 3D printing introduces the possibility to decide which will be the final weight of the jewel in advance, without affecting
the desired apparent volume.
This is an opportunity for perfect market positioning as well as it allows the jewels to be more comfortable to wear, i.e. earrings.
One of the main advantages of direct metal 3D printing is the possibility to change the apparent volume, i.e. as the ring's size
changes, the ring's volume remains constant. This means that each ring size will have the same weight and the same
precious metal cost. It is well known that high end jewellery rings, for example, are sold at the same price, regardless of their
Directly metal 3D printed jewels show no visible porosity if compared with casting, as shown in the metallographic pictures.
As well the above table gives the typical density limits, shown as residual porosity, of both techniques: casting can
achieve in the best conditions a maximum density of 99,9% of the bulk density while direct metal 3D printing can
achieve a solid 99,99% one.
The chart above shows the total roughness of the jewels, so called Rt, comparing traditional casting, direct casting and
direct metal 3D printing. In the case of casting the highest roughness is not distributed as in 3D printing. It's often connected
to localized holes due to some casting defects as shrinkage porosity. This will however force the goldsmith to remove all the
metal surrounding the hole to get a flat and bright porosity-free surface. However the average roughness of 3D printed
jewels is comparable to the one coming from direct casting.
As shown on the roughness profile, all the surface peaks need to be removed to get the full dense surface
without imperfections and porosity. The advantage in 3D printing, in case of similar roughness value, is that the amount of
metal that needs to be removed is much smaller. This in case of non local laser repairment performed on casting parts.
The table reports the average grinding and polishing loss to be considered when comparing direct metal 3D printing and
traditional or direct casting.
Molten metals, during casting process, have the ability to fulfil thin parts proportionally to their surface extension. In casting,
greater surface area and thickness are needed to achieve complete parts .
In direct metal 3D printing this relationship no longer stands. Whether the part's surface is large or small, the printable
thickness is always the same. In absolute terms, 3D printers are able to build parts with a thickness at least 50% thinner than
The graph shows a lower quantity of equivalent CO2 produced by 3D printing process to have 1kg of jewels. The
benchmark should be considered with casting yields' values below 50%. This because very often in jewellery the equipment
are used below their real production capacity. A burn-out furnace, the equipment with higher equivalent CO2 produced, is
hardly ever filled with casting flasks.
In case of metal 3D printing there is no connection between the quantity and process yield.